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Hear Ye, Hear Ye
May 14, 2024 · original
Don’t call it a crumbback Hi all, if you’re still getting alerts to new posts here I’d love for you to come over to my new joint, Things on Bread . After a long and fertile hiatus from blogging, I’ve moved the cooking journal slash food blog slash DIY culinary odyssey to Substack. I just started a couple of weeks ago, and it’s off to a promising start. Take a look, please subscribe, and stay tuned for what should be a fun ride. This blog will remain up, but for the foreseeable future all the hot new content will be over at the new spot. There will be recipes, though in general I’m going to err on the side of instructions rather than teaspoons and such. I promise it will be useful, and will help you build a deeper and more confident connection to your cooking. If you have the wherewithal and inclination, I would be most grateful for your paid subscription. This blog was a lot of things, b
Upcoming events
Aug 29, 2019 · original
I’m doing a bunch of teaching and related things in the coming months, so here’s a list in case you’re interested in any of the following: On September 6 from 2-3 pm I’ll be on WAMC radio talking about wine and food pairings with Christy Frank of Copake Wine Works and chef Joel Viehland of Swyft . You can listen live on their site, or listen to the archived recording later on. On September 7 I’ll be teaching a fresh pasta class at Blue Cashew Kitchen in Kingston . A couple of kinds of dough, several shapes, and a few saucy accompaniments. SOLD OUT From September 20-28, I’ll be leading a culinary tour of the Dordogne along with yoga teacher Linda Winnick. SOLD OUT (We’ll be doing more trips, so watch this space.) October 5, come learn pickling with me at HGS Home Chef in Hillsdale, NY . We’ll cover quick pickles, plus vinegar and lacto-fermented examples. Everyone will get a jar to take h
Dordogne Cooking and Yoga Retreat, September 20-28
Jan 29, 2019 · original
The cuisine of Southwestern France ranks among the most iconic and delicious in the whole country. What would you say to an eight-day culinary tour of this incredible region, living at a gorgeous retreat with a big pool? What if we also had a yoga teacher on site, so we could all eat and drink guilt-free? Join Peter Barrett and Linda Winnick on our tour of this bountiful region. We’ll be based near Bergerac, Cyrano’s city, at a beautiful B&B with a large kitchen, a heated pool, and expansive grounds (photo up top). From there we’ll venture forth to farmers’ markets to buy ingredients which we’ll bring back and cook up into lavish meals, making both traditional dishes and Peter’s lighter, more vegetable-centered interpretations. Linda will lead yoga and meditation classes and hikes to keep us all feeling fantastic. The Dordogne Valley, running east from Bordeaux, encompasses some of Franc
Culinary Tour of Umbria, March 17-27
Jan 11, 2019 · original
There’s a longer post on the subject at the link up top of the homepage, including photos of some of the rooms, but I wanted to share the exciting schedule we’ve worked out so far (still subject to change, but it should give you a good idea what to expect). The garden at civitella Email Molly@civitella.org today to reserve your spot! Monday, March 18: Arrive in Rome where we’ll pick you up at the airport and drive the group up to Umbertide, stopping for a fortifying pasta lunch on the way. Peter will give a brief pancetta curing demonstration before we eat dinner at Civitella. March 19: Breakfast at Civitella. Quick trip into Umbertide for breakfast groceries. Tour of the castle and facilities followed by lunch. Afternoon class on cakes and liquors with Romana. Barbecue dinner at Civitella. March 20: The beautiful rolling landscape around Montefalco produces the best wine in Umbria. We’l
A Fistful of Flowers
Jul 18, 2018 · original
For someone as passionate about fermentation as I am, it’s surprising that I never made any alcohol until recently. The reason was largely that I figured I’d never be able to replicate anything close to the wines I like, and even if I did the quantity would be too small to warrant the effort. But there’s more to drink than wine, and four years in the new garden is producing a lot more fruit than it used to. And since lactic and acetic acid fermentations (including with koji) are pretty second nature to me, I wanted to try something new. Last year, I began earnestly macerating fruit and herbs (separately or in select combinations) in grain alcohol. Tender green herbs only needed a few days to extract their flavor (after which it can get swampy), while denser things like foraged black walnuts and rose hips took longer. Most fruit, including rhubarb, was pretty great after a couple of weeks
It Literally Means “Green Mountain”
May 22, 2018 · original
We finally got the spring issue of Fish & Game Quarterly out, and it’s all about Vermont, a state very dear to both Zak and me. We have some excellent writing in the form of three longer pieces that overlap in appealing ways, and a spring recipe from one of the state’s best chefs. Enjoy. Also, the culinary tour of Umbria is filling up fast. Click that link for details, and don’t dawdle—space is limited. The post It Literally Means “Green Mountain” appeared first on cookblog .
Come Cook With Me In Italy, November 5-14
Apr 9, 2018 · original
Italy taught me to cook. When I moved to Rome at 20, I had rudimentary kitchen skills. Over the course of the next couple of years, when I went out to eat I savored every bite, trying to understand how seemingly simple food contained so much flavor, and then I’d try to reverse-engineer those dishes back in the kitchen. Daily shopping in Campo dei Fiori taught me the central answer: the quality of ingredients, grown nearby, is key. Practice (and lots of what I called “research eating”) taught me the techniques I needed. The rest is history; in the ensuing years I’ve built on that knowledge and turned it into a career as a food writer, photographer, teacher, and gardener. Now I get to share this passionate connection to one of the world’s great cuisines with you as I lead a ten-day cooking class in Umbria this fall. While Tuscany has enjoyed tourism’s bright spotlight for decades, neighbor
The Vox Pop Pesto Post™
Apr 6, 2018 · original
Okay, as promised I rushed upstairs as soon as I got home from Albany so I could get this up for you all. (I did not take this picture today; we got more snow than this. This one is from a couple snows ago.) Alas, I don’t have a picture of today’s pesto because I left the jar at the WAMC studio so the nice people there could enjoy it with the bread. Sorrel and garlic chive pesto: Approximately equal amounts of sorrel and garlic chives (greens only or greens and bulbs, trimmed of roots, if you want it more garlicky) Good olive oil Salt Wash and coarsely chop the greens, then add them to the bowl of a food processor with a fat pinch of salt. Spin the machine, adding oil until the mixture grabs the blade and makes a vortex. Stop the machine, scrape the sides down with a spatula, and spin again. Do this a couple more times until it’s all nice and smooth, then taste it for seasoning and adjus
In The Cauldron Boil And Bake
Mar 8, 2018 · original
It’s sugaring season, and Tuesday marked the second boil over at Danny’s place. Sunny and mild, the day couldn’t have been better suited to the occasion. Per normal, he started the fire and filled the pan early in the morning and I rolled in later to stoke the furnace and monitor progress while he did some work in the studio. Also per normal, I brought food to cook. We lost power in the storm last Friday, which normally is not a big deal because of the generator I had installed shortly after we moved in. But this time it didn’t work, even after a repair dude spent the better part of an hour messing with it that afternoon. So we fetched water from our neighbors (whose generator worked) and showered there too and generally made do, charging phones in the car and sitting in front of the fire a lot. I cooked a coil of merguez in the fireplace, which wasn’t elegant but did make for a decent d
Speed Trials
Feb 6, 2018 · original
I haven’t used the wok for a while, so the other night I was thinking about some sort of Sichuan stir-fried situation for dinner using the napa cabbage and fennel I had in the fridge. There was also a package of goat stew meat, which enjoys those highly aromatic spices, so perfect, right? But because these goat chunks had some fat and connective tissue on them, they weren’t great candidates for quick cooking; those things tend to be pretty chewy or worse unless they’re cooked long and low and I didn’t feel like trimming them all and ending up with a pile of stringy scraps fit only for stock. So I came up with a sort of hybrid, using slow-roasted goat in an otherwise speedy stir-fry. I toasted cinnamon, star anise, fennel, mustard black pepper, Sichuan peppercorns, caraway, coriander, cardamom, clove, dried clementine peel, and Thai chili before grinding them all to powder. (The fennel, c

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