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Alpinist

alpinist.com · American English

Alpinist Magazine is an archival-quality, quarterly publication dedicated to the art of ascent in its most powerful manifestations, presenting a vision of climbing and its lifestyle that matches the intensity of the pursuit itself.

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Sep 30, 2026
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Alpinist - The Climbing Life
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  1. Jimmy Chin’s Rules To Live By: Need Some Inspiration to Live Your Best Life?
    Sep 30, 2026 · original
    MSRP: $30 Mike Lewis stands atop Mt. Beirstadt (14,064′) in Colorado with a fresh copy of Jimmy Chin’s new book, Rules to Live By: How extraordinary lives define what really matter s . [Photo] Mike Lewis Reading another’s life and absorbing into it, especially a profoundly exceptional one, brings mixed feelings, doubts, light, and often a resolution to dig deep and live my best life. I felt envy and inspiration, had tears and laughs, rolled my eyes a few times, and I am left with some questions that will likely never be answered. I am grateful for new memories, and old ones revived. Aging brings sadness, the loss of agility, strength and options; and yet, it motivates to make the most of what’s left. Jimmy and I are only one year apart, he the elder born in ’73. I am going to refer to the author as Jimmy instead of Chin , because even though we never became friends, after reading Rules t
  2. What We’re Reading, 2026 vol. 2
    Sep 24, 2026 · original
    [These reviews originally appeared in Alpinist 94 ( Summer 202 6) , which is available on newsstands and in our online store . Only a small fraction of our many long-form stories from the print edition are ever uploaded to Alpinist.com. Be sure to pick up the hard copies of Alpinist for all the goodness!–Ed.] The media Alpinist editors and contributors reviewed in Alpinist 94. This summer, important stories came to us in several different formats. We watched Dean Potter tiptoe across dizzying highlines as his friends explored their complex relationships with the climber in HBO’s The Dark Wizard . We picked up video game controllers and attempted to reach the top of a the fictional peak Mt. Kami as digital snow swirled and stormed around us in Cairn . And we saw the climbing world through the hopeful eyes of teenagers in the pages of Crux . The Dark Wizard Sender Films I was only thirteen
  3. La Sportiva’s Lumina 100 & 200 Jackets: A new way to layer for multipitch climbing
    Sep 1, 2026 · original
    MSRP: Lumina 100 ($289), Lumina 200 ($379) A shady venture on Smashmouth in Zion National Park, Utah provided opportunity for Mountain Standards reviewer Lani Chapko to test the Lumina 100 jacket. [Photo] Sam Boyce The La Sportiva Lumina down jacket series—100, 200, and 300—set out with the goal of achieving the highest warmth-to-weight ratio out there. In November and December of 2025, I wore either the Lumina 100 or 200 jacket every day. They came with me on multipitch climbs in Red Rock Canyon in Nevada, Zion National Park and made the journey all the way to Wadi Rum in Jordan. I get cold easily when I am not moving, which has turned into a mild obsession with jackets. I feel like I have to bring an insulation layer everywhere and I increasingly have less tolerance for just sucking it up. Luckily the lightness of the Lumina series meant I never had to choose between added weight and b
  4. Dean Potter Lives On
    Aug 19, 2026 · original
    Dean Potter is a name that has resurfaced in mainstream culture since a four-part documentary about his life, The Dark Wizard , was released on HBO Max in April. Once an underground, itinerant dirtbag who scorned fame and riches while chasing bright flames of dangerous passions, he rose to notoriety through what he called his “dark arts”—namely free soloing, highlining and BASE jumping. To put that in layman’s terms: climbing and highlining without a rope and parachuting off cliffs. All of which led him to become a practitioner of wingsuit flying and a progenitor of FreeBASE climbing (free solo climbing with a parachute on his back). In 2015 Potter died in a wingsuit BASE jumping accident in Yosemite Valley along with his twenty-nine-year-old companion, Graham Hunt. Potter was forty-three, the same age I am now. When I came of age in the late 1990s and 2000s, Potter embodied what it mean
  5. Julbo’s Explorer 2.0: A Modern Update to the Original Glacier Glasses
    Jul 16, 2026 · original
    MSRP: $229.95 (as tested, with Reactiv lens) [Photo] Brian Riepe In 1991 I bought my first pair of Julbo glacier glasses before a trip trekking through northern Patagonia and Chile. Features included leather side shields, a metal frame, wraparound ear loops and a cord to keep them in place, and mirrored lenses dark enough for midday travel over snow and ice. They were exactly what the mountains demanded, and I still have them today. So when the new Explorer 2.0 showed up, essentially Julbo’s modernized take on that same glacier-glasses concept, I had a high bar in mind and a soft spot to match. Julbo has been designing dedicated mountaineering eyewear since the 1950s, and the brand still sells its Heritage line today for anyone who wants the traditional look and feel. That continuity matters here: the Explorer 2.0 isn’t a reinvention so much as a refinement using modern material technolo
  6. Black Diamond’s Zone Harness is More Than Just a Sport Climbing Specialist
    Jul 7, 2026 · original
    MSRP: $169.95 USD David Hume tests the carrying capacity of Black Diamond’s Zone harness on Jackin’ the Johnson (5.11c), Hallett Peak, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. [Photo] Chris Weidner When I first got my hands on the new Black Diamond Zone harness, the season was shifting toward summer and with it, my focus from sport projects to alpine rock objectives. I found the design works well for both. This new version of the Zone replaces a predecessor that was intended to be a high-performance all-rounder, equally suited for the crag and the mountains. The new design notionally targets sport climbs but is not a specialized harness by any means. I’ve used it almost exclusively over the last year on everything from my home crags and gyms to multipitch sport climbs and long trad climbs in the backcountry. I even used it on a couple of bolting missions where I spent a lot of time hangin
  7. Gregory’s Updated Alpinisto 25 and 50L Packs Merge Alpine Features with Backpacking Comfort
    Jul 2, 2026 · original
    MSRP: Alpinisto 50 ($299.95); Alpinisto 25 ($199.95) The author carries the Gregory Alpinisto 50 on a February cragging day on Lumpy Ridge near Estes Park, Colorado. [Photo] C.B. Over the winter and spring of 2025-26, I had the opportunity to try out two climbing packs made by Gregory: the updated 25 and 50L versions of the Alpinisto. Spanning a few decades, two iterations of Gregory’s 75L Denali expedition pack served as my carry-all workhorse on numerous Pacific Crest Outward Bound courses and South American personal and guiding expeditions; the Denalis gave me an idea of the generally high quality of Gregory’s packs, especially the comfort and stability of their carrying systems, their tendency toward useful bells and whistles, and the functional intention behind their designs. The Alpinisto packs supported my anticipated expectations—well built, interesting and utilitarian design fea
  8. Peering into the Void
    Jul 1, 2026 · original
    [This Sharp End story originally appeared in Alpinist 94 (Summer 2026) , which is now available on newsstands and in our online store . Only a small fraction of our many long-form stories from the print edition are ever uploaded to Alpinist.com. Be sure to pick up the hard copies of Alpinist for all the goodness!–Ed.] This illustration originally accompanied a story by Dean Potter in Alpinist 9 (2004–2005) titled “Falling.” [Artwork] Jeremy Collins WHEN I CAME OF age in the late 1990s and 2000s, Dean Potter embodied what it meant to be a climber: a free spirit who saw beyond any perceived limitations; someone who channeled the wildness in his heart and pushed himself to the edge of his abilities, fully committed with everything at stake. He was in all the climbing media, all the ads. A rock star. For many of us, he defined the fashion and the attitude as well as the vision. A four-part d
  9. YETI’s Sturdy Organizers and Bottles Provide Ease and Reliability on Expeditions and Weekend Getaways
    Jun 10, 2026 · original
    Panga 75L Waterproof Duffel (MSRP $350) , Hopper Flip 18L Soft Cooler (MSRP $300) , Rambler Bottle 26oz (MSRP $40) w/5oz Cup Cap (MSRP $30) , Loadout Gobox 60L Gear Case w/Loadout Gobox Caddy (MSRP $300) YETI’s Panga Waterproof Duffel, Loadout Gobox Gear Case, Rambler Bottle, and Hopper Flip Soft Cooler made for an adventure-filled winter and early spring test kit. [Photo] Mike Lewis For years I have been saying to myself, YETI—what’s the hype? I mean, won’t a good ol’ Coleman cooler from Walmart do the job? Years of seeing YETI stickers on 4Runners and YETI written all over the Freeride World Tour’s finish zone finally piqued my curiosity. So here we are, six months and a winter full of road trips later, and I’ve got something useful (I think) to say about this company, well at least about these four tested items. In short: Bomber as F$&K. Solid is my go-to. I’m not a fan of half-ass an
  10. New and Improved Wild Country Friends: Clip With Ease While Cruxing Out
    May 23, 2026 · original
    MSRP: $99.95 – $129.95 The author, Katie Griffith, puts the new Wild Country Friends to test in her backyard climbing area, Joshua Tree, California. [Photo] Nate Pakula Nearing the end of the 150-foot fourth pitch of Dream of Wild Turkeys, I was running out of quickdraws. I knew that the thin crux comes at the very end of the pitch and is protected by three bolts, so I needed to ration my use of slings for extension. Luckily, I had a couple of the new Wild Country Friends left on my harness. I plugged a 0.5 Friend, extended the new Flow Cord sling, and continued up the sheer, varnished rock of the Black Velvet Wall toward the crux. The Red Rock Canyon of Nevada and California’s Joshua Tree served as perfect testing grounds for the newly designed Wild Country Friends. I plugged these camming devices into cracks on routes up to thirteen pitches in length, used them to teach budding trad le

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